Jennifer Martin


15+ years commercial cultivation experience, including biz operations, cultivation methods, nutrients, site layout, workflow, strain testing

InCall® Rates

Duration Price
6 minutes (SixFree Call) $0 (No charge)
15 minutes $100.00
30 minutes $175.00
60 minutes $300.00


Indoor Cultivation Marijuana Growing Cloning Vegetative Growth Strain Selection Powdery Mildew Management LED Lighting Multi-tier Growing Mobile Racking Systems Greenhouse Growing Building Design custom nutrients organic growing mineral nutrients operating plans


Here to serve your indoor cultivation needs for new and pre-existing cannabis businesses. Integration of the big picture along with all the details within a project is central aspect of the value I bring to the table. I make sure my clients are happy with what they've gotten for their investment and never cut corners at the expense of quality. Core values include personal responsibility, reliability, honesty, efficiency, and careful focus in both my personal and professional relationships. Specialties: Documentation, writing, communications, business strategy & administration, advanced cultivation techniques, technical troubleshooting, workflow management and optimization.


April 2015 - present

Support in planning and implementing indoor cultivation systems, including SOPs, cultivation methods, nutrients, lighting, racks and tables, workflow, plant health management, pruning and trellising, IPM, and environmental controls. 


California Institute of Integral Studies

Master's Degree
2000 - 2002

North Texas State University

Bachelor's Degree
1989 - 1993

6/2/2017 4:38:55 PM,
Jennifer Martin replied:
Mostly people are still just ordering them from Europe. Places like Seedsman or Sensible Seeds ship to the US, but obviously that's got some risk associated with it. There's a company in Oregon that sells them. They are called Southern Oregon Seeds. I haven't vetted the quality of their stock. The best options is probably the Seed Vault in Southern California . They carry a lot of well known brands, like Crockett, Gage Green, Loompa, Archive, Bodhi, and CSI Humboldt. Their website is
2/16/2018 7:34:58 PM,
Jennifer Martin replied:

This is Jennifer Martin of 

All of these substances have different ingredients, so you'd have to send them into a lab for analysis before knowing which ones to use to supplement the minerals you seek to add. There are 13 essential minerals that plants need in the right quantities and proportions. You'll find variation from one guano type to another and from one compost type to another. Guano and protein meals in particular, are known for containing high levels of nitrogen. If you are amending coco fiber, you will need something that supplies nitrogen, but you also need sources for all of the other minerals. 

1/22/2018 7:42:54 PM,
Jennifer Martin replied:

Hi Anonymous. This is Jennifer Martin here of Growing organically outdoors and in greenhouses is easier than doing it indoors because you are already dealing with lots of soil and farm-like conditions. Indoor, cleanliness is key to avoid pest and pathogen problems, so having a lot of dirt around is a challenge because it harbors all sorts of lifeforms, where rockwool is much cleaner and easier to carry, dispose of, and manage. 

In a super competitive market, however, you might benefit from the market edge that organic flowers would give you. Just keep in mind that, with organic growing, you are dealing with a much more complex set of rootzone conditions; you don't just have mineral chemistry to harness- you also have soil biology, and the number of interactions that can happen is infinitely higher. 

For growers with only a modest amount of experience, organic growing is much riskier. 

Does wood harbor mold in a flower room? Considering many greenhouses are wood framed...

I have a big question regarding the use of wood in flower rooms.
I’ve worked with many medical growers who utilize wood beds lined with pond liner. Even in rooms with low VPD (80-85f and 70-80rH) I’ve never observed mold on the wood. I have been warned by companies that wood will harbor mold and increase the microbial bioburden in finished product. I don’t agree with this statement, but I’d like to know if any of you have thoughts, observations, or data on the topic.

11/14/2017 1:14:27 AM,
Jennifer Martin replied:

Hi Jaya, 


I answered this via email, and didn't realize it was posted here too. I avoid wood because it's porous, and any porous substance is a place where dust can settle and then feed microbes of various kinds. I like having smooth cleanable surfaces in grow rooms. 

9/2/2017 3:52:43 AM,
Jennifer Martin replied:

Hi, this is an industry association, so I assume this question is related to running a business? If you want to know about how to grow a healthy plant, there are lots of hobby grower forums for that. First timers should not be starting commercial grow operations without experienced growers. 

In any case, there are certainly plenty of mistakes to make along the way with a commercial operation, starting with site design and continuing on into chosen cultivation methods, pest/mold prevention, and efficient allocation of the labor force. 

I'd say the biggest misconception that investors and entrepreneurs have related to cultivation is that cannabis can be "widgetized" - that a certain set of rules can be followed for reliable repeatable outcomes. That's only true to some modest extent. People forget that plants are alive and thus do not behave like machines, and they go into cultivation businesses having no idea what they are actually in for. 

4/29/2017 5:52:33 AM,
Jennifer Martin replied:
Thanks for the question. The two most common mistakes are too much light, and an improper balance of moisture in the medium relative to the amount of venting in the humidity domes. Usually, trays are overwatered, which poses a risk for oxygen depletion. If you keep them around 4lbs, keep the ambient temperature of the space around 73 degrees, and use a heat mat to warm up the root zone to 80, you'll get convection heat that causes the moisture in the medium to "cook" out the moisture, which creates humidity in the dome. If you don't have enough holes in the dome, the tops of the clones will yellow out from being too wet. Cut enough holes in the lid to just have a very slight amount of condensation in the dome. Keep the light level down to 50-60 PPFD. Any more that that will stress the clones. When they are rooted, you should increase the light to 80-100 PPFD at first, wait to see some healthy growth, and then increase up to 150 PPFD. Especially with LEDs, the transition into bright light needs to be done in relatively small increments, and then wait 5 days to make sure the plants are healthy, then increase again.